Garage Post Shelves: Part 2

After detailing the design approach and layout in my last entry, I moved on to building the actual components for my garage post-shelf system. This phase involved crafting and installing brackets that would not only securely clamp onto the steel columns but also support a functional, sturdy shelving solution.

To begin making the 2×4 brackets, I picked up a few boards (some were scraps) and milled them to uniform dimensions to eliminate any twists or cupping. Then, I cut a short segment and, with a compass, traced a circular sector. I set the compass to the radius of the steel post plus the thickness of the rubber liner I intended to glue inside the vaulted cut.

 Using a bandsaw, I cut out the sector and sanded the surface smooth. Next, I glued this short segment to the middle of a longer 2×4 beam. After creating three more brackets, I drilled each pair with through holes to accommodate the fasteners that would clamp the brackets over the steel post.

You can use carriage bolts, threaded rods, or any other long fastener that can be tightened with a nut. A ⅜” or thicker fastener works best for this setup. Lag bolts that pass through one bracket and anchor into its counterpart will also work well.

Next, glue a strip of medium-to-high-density rubber or equivalent material to the inside of the brackets. An adhesive-backed material can help you speed up the process, but you can also get a sheet of rubber, cut it into strips, and use double-stick tape or contact cement to affix it to the wood.

Adding the 2×4 Face-Mount Joist Hangers

To support the long beams spanning between the brackets and carrying the shelf load, I mounted face-mount joist hangers on the inner side of the T-brackets.

 Installation

Mount the two brackets facing each other with bolts, keeping the bolts somewhat loose so you can slide the assembled bracket up the steel column. A “third-hand” adjustable post can help with positioning and alignment, or you can ask a family member or friend to assist. Align the two bracket units at the same height and orientation. I used levels and measuring tape, though a laser level would work well, too. Once you’re confident in the positioning, begin tightening the bolts gradually and evenly to avoid pinching the brackets unevenly.

The Shelf

Attach the long 2×4 beams to the joist hangers and secure them with screws. I used reclaimed plywood sheets salvaged from a shipping crate, cut them to size, and placed them on the long 2×4 beams.

To add an additional cantilever shelf over the exterior T-brackets, I attached a sole joist hanger in the middle of the T-beam and custom-fitted a piece of short 2×4 onto it. Then, I cut a piece of plywood to rest on both the hanger bracket and the T-bracket. 

Securing the Shelves

You can either fasten the shelves to the long 2×4 beams with screws or simply let them rest on top. However, the cantilevered shelves should be secured to the outer brackets and the sole joist hanger.

I had 240V and 110V outlets pre-installed above the shelf, so I made a few adjustments to the plywood, drilling holes and recesses to allow easy access to these outlets for my equipment.