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I’m a “hybrid” woodworker. I refuse to choose hand tools over power tools, or vice versa. My ultimate goals are accuracy and efficiency. So in my shop, hand tools finish what power tools begin.
Hand tools complement and complete work begun with power equipment.
Most folks I talk with in the woodworking hobby seem to follow a similar path. They start out by emulating what they see on television, which is of course, power tools. Eventually, whether through magazines, web sites, forums or local clubs, they hear other woodworkers raving about the virtues of hand tools. Not wanting to miss out on something great, they usually head out to the nearest hardware store and purchase their first plane, typically a bench plane or a small block plane.
Their first attempt at using the tool actually becomes a pivotal point in their development: a three-pronged fork in the beginning craftsman’s path. Depending on their first impressions, the woodworkers are then subdivided into one of three camps.
First we have the power-tool users (affectionately termed “Normites” after one of the most popular power-tool users in existence, Norm Abram). These amperage addicts love their horsepower and scoff at the thought of cutting any type of joinery by hand.
Second, we have the hand-tool users (frequently referred to as “Neanderthals” due to their love of older, simpler tooling – not because they have large foreheads and bad posture). This calmer, gentler variety of woodworker enjoys the quiet and controlled interaction between human and wood.
The third category of woodworker is what I like to refer to as the “Hybrids.” A hybrid woodworker approaches each project with the question, “Which tool will get the job done quickly and accurately?” Whether rated in rpm or the Rockwell scale, a tool is a tool. Power, tech specs and nostalgia take a back seat to the bigger picture: getting the job done. Generally speaking, my hybrid approach involves using a power tool as the primary workhorse and the hand tools for fine tuning. Here are some of my favorites.
No. 80 Cabinet Scraper for Panels
Gluing up flat panels is fundamental to doing quality woodwork. A jointer, planer and table saw take care of the milling process in short order. But, despite our best efforts, the joints between the boards are seldom completely flush, and they require some attention.
Smoothing a panel. A No. 80 cabinet scraper makes quick work of leveling the joints and smoothing the surface of this walnut panel.
Once the glue is dry, I like to even things out with a No. 80 cabinet scraper. In most cases, three to five smooth strokes diagonally across the joint result in a smooth continuous surface. If you need to remove more stock, simply turn the thumbscrew on the back of the scraper and more of the blade will be exposed, resulting in a more aggressive action. The wide base of the No. 80 scraper is perfect for this job as it stabilizes the tool and resists following small hills and valleys. And best of all, because you are scraping the surface, there is virtually no chance of tear-out.
Router Plane and Shoulder Plane
If you have a bunch of rabbets and dados to make, nothing can batch them out faster than a table saw outfitted with a dado stack. But one thing is for sure – the grooves you cut will rarely be the exact same depth across the entire board or panel. And the longer or wider the workpiece, the worse the problem gets.
A router with no cord? A router plane is a great tool for finishing off uneven or rough dados and grooves.
Common causes of this phenomenon include bowed panels, uneven table saw surfaces and panels lifting as they are pushed over the dado stack. Regardless of the cause, there are two planes that come to your rescue every time: a router plane and a shoulder plane.
A router plane is perfect for cleaning up those dados. Simply set the L-shaped blade to the appropriate depth and push it through the dado. The first time I did this, I was amazed at how uneven the dado really was.
A shoulder plane is my preferred tool for cleaning up rabbets. The unique design of the shoulder plane allows the blade to glide right along the shoulder of the rabbet, yielding a smooth, crisp edge. And the long body of the plane provides a great reference surface that results in a smooth and true 90º rabbet.
Your extra effort will be rewarded with beautiful flat-bottomed dados, grooves and rabbets that provide a much better bond surface for an adjoining workpiece.
Flush-cut Saw for Dowels
Exposed dowels and screw plugs are trimmed quickly and easily using a flush-cut saw. The flexible, fine-tooth, zero-set blade allows you to reference off of the work itself without damaging the surface. I usually use one hand to press the blade against the work surface, while my other hand moves the saw back and forth. A light sanding afterward and you’ve got yourself a perfectly flush dowel or plug.
Feeling flush? A flush-cut saw is the perfect tool for trimming proud plugs and dowels without marring the surrounding surface.
The flush-cut saw comes in handy for more than just trimming dowels and plugs. In fact, it’s probably one of the most frequently used handsaws in my collection!
Tools to Fit Tenons
Using a power tool to cut tenons that perfectly fit a mortise can sometimes be tricky business. One slight over-adjustment and your tenon goes from a weensy-bit snug to way too sloppy. Fortunately, this frustration is easily avoided. The trick is to intentionally mill your tenons slightly oversized, then use hand tools to finesse the fit. In most cases, I find that by the time I remove the milling marks left by power tools, the tenon’s fit is just about perfect.
A shoulder to lean on. The shoulder plane allows you to fine-tune the fit of your tenons, one wispy shaving at a time.
As an added bonus, there are a number of tools that can do this job effectively including rabbet, shoulder and block planes, and even a chisel. I find removing a paper-thin slice of wood at a time is the most satisfying and least frustrating way to sneak up on a perfect fit.
Chisels for Hinge Mortises
Whenever I mortise for hinges, the trim router is my “go-to” tool. Its light and nimble form gives me the control I need to create flat-bottomed mortises at a consistent depth. But a router bit only gets you so far. Because the bit is round, all of the corners are round. And unless you have the hands of a surgeon and the eyes of an eagle, you’re going to want to stay a good distance away from your layout lines.
A sharp chisel. A few taps with a chisel and a hammer produces nice crisp lines when making hinge mortises.
I find that the best way to take care of removing extra material is with a nice sharp chisel. I start by firmly chopping into my layout lines (which have been scribed with an X-Acto knife). Then, I remove the remainder of material by carefully paring it away, using the flat portion of the mortise as a reference surface. A few chops, a few swipes and your hinge should fit perfectly every time.
These are just a few examples of the many ways you can incorporate hand tools into a power-tool shop. In fact, we’ve only scratched the surface. The more I learn about hand tools, the more opportunity I see to incorporate them into my everyday power-tool routines. Of course, not everyone likes the hybrid concept. After all, there will always be Neanderthals and Normites duking it out for woodworking supremacy. As long as they’re happy, who am I to criticize? But if your ultimate goal is to be as efficient and accurate as possible, you just can’t beat the hybrid approach. By combining the old and the new, you will truly experience the best of both worlds.
Here are some supplies and tools we find essential in our everyday work around the shop. We may receive a commission from sales referred by our links; however, we have carefully selected these products for their usefulness and quality.
